Stare at any map of the African continent for more than a few seconds, and it won’t be long before your eyes begin drifting towards the region of the rift valley, and the great lakes of Africa. There are seven lakes in total that form the ‘Great Lakes of Africa‘, but today my focus is on only one. The mighty Lake Tanganyika, the longest and deepest lake on the vast African continent.
Winding the clock back to 1993, I have great memories of my adventure aboard Africa’s grand old passenger ferry, the MV Liemba.
The MV Liemba was built in Germany way back in 1913, and carries approximately 400 passengers and crew (although she is at times loaded up with far more), as she makes her way back and forth along the complete length of Lake Tanganyika (the worlds longest lake at approx 673km or 418mi).
The MV Liemba Has A Rich History
The Route The MV Liemba Takes on Lake Tanganyika
Formerly named the Graf von Götzen, the MV Liemba has a rich history, starting way back during the first world war where she was used by the Germans to shuttle soldiers along the lake. The ship was also the inspiration for the German gunboat Luisa in C.S. Fosters 1935 novel ‘The African Queen’, later made into the famous film staring Humphrey Bogart and Katherine Hepburn.
In recent times the MV Liemba was used by the UNHCR to transport more than 75,000 refugees who fled Zaire during the ‘First Congo War‘. On top of all this, the ship has also been the victim of many piracy attacks during the last twenty or so years, with the lawlessness and the ongoing continental war in the neighboring Democratic Republic of the Congo.
Tirelessly serving the people of Burundi, Tanzania and Zambia, the MV Liemba plies the shores of mighty Lake Tanganyika stopping on route (approximately 19 times) to supply many of the local villages that dot the shores along this great African voyage. Many of these villages are extremely isolated and have no road access. The weekly passing of the MV Liemba is the life blood to the village, bringing food and supplies to the people living in this isolated region of Africa.
The Chaos Unfolds As The African Queen Comes To a Halt
After the MV Liemba stopped, the smaller boats would be full to the brim with people and supplies.
As the ship comes to a halt a little way of shore, the captain sounds the horn, as a signal for the game to begin. Watching the chaos unfold before you as the swarm of smaller boats hustle and bustle their way towards the MV Liemba, all plying for pole position to tender people and goods back to shore.
At this point people are basically slung, handed, thrown and pushed onto the waiting tenders, with all manner of goods tossed from the ship into the waiting boats below.
The ships crane is also busily working above, loading the smaller boats with large sacks of grain and rice.
The Trip Aboard The MV Liemba Takes 3 Days in Either Direction
Organized choas, as the passengers were loaded into the smaller craft.
The trip aboard the MV Liemba takes approximately three days in either direction, as she makes her way back and forth between Burundi’s capital Bujumbura at the northern end of lake Tanganyika. All the way to the Zambian town of Mpulungu, at Tanganyika’s southern most point.
My time aboard the ship had it’s ups and downs. For starters we treated ourselves and went 2nd class, obtaining a sleeper cabin for the three day trip. As it turned out our cabin was next to the engine room, and was so hot inside, that we ended up sleeping on the deck anyway.
Another problem we faced aboard was a fair bit of drinking aboard the ship, and as there was no cell to lock away any unsavory characters that were up to no good. The captain decided it would be a good idea to padlock one of the drunks to a pipe just in front of our cabin door. We had to step over this one fella for two full days (he also spoiled his pants during these two days, so you can imagine the stench).
The MV Liemba Still Runs To This Day
The MV Liemba is nearing her 100 years of service on the African continent, which is quite astonishing really. She has seen allot in her day, but from all accounts is still running strong to this day (albeit a little haphazardly at times). If you ever get to this part of Africa, I highly recommend a journey aboard this famous ship.
The trip along lake Tanganyika, will always be remembered by myself as one of those classic journeys a traveler can undertake, and whenever I look at a map of Africa, I will always remember my three days aboard Lake Tanganyika’s ‘African Queen’.
Your Thoughts and Comments?
Have you taken a journey aboard the MV Liemba? What about another ship or ferry that also operates upon Africa’s great lakes? Are there any other voyages around the world such as this, that you would recommend?
