The Middle East has always been a subject of great fascination to many travelers throughout the centuries, and Liza and I were no different. Whilst over-landing from Europe to Australia in the 1995, we made our way from Eastern Turkey and into ‘The Islamic Republic of Iran’. At this time (as I would also presume today) there were all but a trickle of western travelers making there way across this arid and expansive country. The route we took was a well beaten path during the sixties and seventies, with many travellers hitching their way along the so called ‘Hippe Trail’, heading for the many delights and pitfalls of India, and the Far East. During our time in Iran everywhere we went, we were made to feel like royalty. The people of this nation were extremely polite, well educated and as curious of us, as we were of them. Our stay lasted a total of 21 days, made up of a 14 day transit visa, with a 7 day extension. (this was the longest any westerner could stay in Iran at this time.)
Iran has much to offer anyone who manages to deal with the red tape and bureaucracy of gaining entry into this mysterious land.
A view from the top of the Citadel looking down upon the city that laid behind the fortified walls.
During our stay we visited some truly remarkable UNESCO World Heritage sites, many of which I had no idea existed before our arrival. From the historic Bazaar of Tabriz and the ancient ruins of Persepolis, to the beautiful blue mosaic tiles of Isfahan’s Jemeh Mosque. It’s tall and tapered minarets and large dome, would reflect both the afternoon sun, and the artificial lights that would illuminate its exterior, each and every night. These names bring back vivid and lasting memories of my time in Iran all those years ago, but there was one site we visited that stood above all others. That was the fortified medieval Citadel of Arg-e Bam, found in the remote south eastern corner of the country (as shown in the picture above).
In 2003, approximately eight years after our visit, the modern city of Bam and surrounding areas of the Kerman province were hit by an horrific earthquake, the killed more than 26,000 people, and injuring a further 30,000.
The Bam Earthquake Killed More Than 26,000 People
This equates to almost half of the cities population being killed, and the other half injured. The standard construction method of the city was the not much different than that which built the ‘Arg-e Bam’ citadel some 1500 years previous. The viscous 6.6 magnitude quake tore through the city and leveled most of the buildings and infrastructure there by reducing much of the city to ruble. As well as the massive loss of life that occurred, the Arg-e Bam was also all but destroyed, and has lay in ruin ever since. The Iranian government has vowed to rebuild the citadel, but it’s main concern (as it should be), was always going to be the reconstruction of the city of Bam, and to help rebuild the lives of those who survived.
A view of the Citadel from a distance. This shot gives you some perspective on how big the site was.
On the day we visited the Arg-e Bam, we basically had the place all to our selves. Besides the two guards at the ticket booth and two or three local toursits, we were on our own. We spent the afternoon exploring this impressive mud-brick constructed fortress, and all of it’s nooks and crannies. Getting lost as we worked our way around the site, taking in the views of the surrounding mountains. The citadel was perched at a high vantage point on a rocky hilltop, with the town below it being guarded by huge walls (over eighty feet high in some parts). In years gone by, the tops of these walls would be covered in archers, who would fine upon those foolish enough to attack the city. It was a memorable afternoon, and to think that others who come to this region in the future will not be able to have an experience like this, as the Arg-e Bam has more than likely been lost forever.
Has anyone else ever been so fortunate as finding them selves in a place such as this, and being able to explore uninhibited without the mass of people that you come to expect at an historical site as significant as the Arg-e Bam.
